We (Jean, Jean's daughter Debbie, and Paul) decided to take a 3-day boat trip as a mini-vacation over the weekend of May 7th - 9th. We started out down south through Charlotte Harbor and spend the first night just off Cayo Costa. This beautiful island was the subject of the last trip essay and did not fail to provide us with some wilderness enjoyment. We took the dingy to the beach for shell collecting and chatting with some other intrepid adventurers. One couple we came across (hardware engineers) had set up a tripod and plate camera well off shore to get a good shot of the shore line - just hobby photos. Gutsy, since a big wave would bury everything.
We did anchor in a relatively unprotected area and spent the night in some pretty rocky seas. Jean was up most of the night watching huge barges plying the intracoastal.
The next morning, we felt the need for a bit more creature comfort and thought of dinner and an overnight at Cabbage Key. This island, accessible only by boat, is truly a taste of old Florida living. Turning west into the harbor from the Intracoastal waterway we were greeted by this quaint and attractive scene. Looking to the left we see a classic view of the waterfront and hill leading up to the inn. Terry, the dockmaster gave us some good hints and we backed into the slip assigned like pros.
The restaurant on Cabbage Key is known for excellent food and great atmosphere. Several local writers (Randy Wayne White for one) are reputed to hang out here and the island was originally developed by the children of writer Mary Roberts Rhinehart. The restaurant is quite funky and papered entirely with dollar bills. We has some nice wine and a great seafood (or chicken for Paul) dinner and did our part to increase the count of dollars on the walls! The whole arrangement feels very informal, everyone is friendly, and here the bartender waves from his den. Our delicious key lime pie was about the color of this page.
The staff were friendly and willing to chat. We found out that many are here to hang out and work for tips and board while dropping out from real life for a while. Many of the guests are attractive couples of lower middle age and we passed some time considering who was married and who was just out having some fun. The sun seems to age men more quickly than women, especially on expensive boats - hmmmmmmm.
After dinner we spent the evening on board Esoteric. The ladies mostly reading while Paul did some programming work on the laptop computer. The water was still, the air muggy, so we used the air conditioning and got a good night's sleep.
We awoke, as usual, hungry. Debbie made a quick check to see if the inn served the morning meal and they did. Here is Debbie leaping ashore to get some food. Paul caught this great blue heron at a distance in the early AM. The breakfast room entrance was quite attractive. Paul went back to get the camera and returned to find these lovely ladies waiting. Breakfast of bacon, eggs and trimmings just hit the spot. Wandering around in front of the Inn, we found some nice places to hang out.
The island is circumscribed by an informal nature trail that sports signs describing the local flora and other items of interest. Much of this island was built up with shell mounds made by the Caloosa indians who were capable engineers. Here Paul poses under some impressive Spanish moss. The staff of the restaurant work for tips only and live in houses buried deep in the jungle. They have a lot of fun but there is a high turnover.
All good things must end and 11 AM is checkout time at Cabbage Key. the ladies pick up some fresh bottled water at $2.50 a shot. Well, where else are we going to get it here? As we pilot Esoteric out of the harbor, we spot this brightly colored former tug bringing in a load of touristas for the popular lunch meal. The navigational markers along the Intracoastal are home to a variety of water birds. Here Jean snaps a closeup of a family of Ospreys - impressive raptors. Some birds just like to hang out.
As we cruise back toward Punta Gorda at least one of the crew snatches a quick snooze on deck. When we got home, the pool, steaks on the grill and ice cream seemed mighty inviting. The island paradise we just visited feels a million miles away.
Copyright (c) 1999 by Paul Galburt